”Saint Estèphe the Excellent?”
Neal Martin, wine writer for Robert Paker, tasted some Bordeaux 2010 Grands Crus in November 2012.
Lets discover some of his favorite wines for 2010 (reds) below :
“In 2009, Saint Estèphe was renowned for the Cos d’Estournel 2009 – a barnstorming wine that was predestined to divide commentators down the line.
In 2010, the appellation offers a very different set of wines that stay true to their signature style; whereas I felt that in 2009 the growing season exerted more influence, one that will surely ebb away as they mature.
“Starting with Château Cos d’Estournel 2010. The 2010 is the discipline and focus on the nose: direct and intense. It is underpinned by filigree tannins on the palate and a sense of mineralité.
The Château Montrose 2010 is to borrow a phrase from my own tasting notes, a quintessential Saint Estephe with a Pauillac accent. It is a typically long-term Montrose and you might consider opening Château Calon Segur 2010 beforehand.
Money No Object: Château Cos d’Estournel
On a budget: Château Capbern-Gasqueton
One to lay down: Château Montrose
2010 Chateau Cos d’Estournel 98
The 2010 is reflective of the vintage, the aromatics beautifully controlled and focused with notes of blackberry, briary, cedar and graphite. It is subtle, complex and cerebral: a bouquet you want to return to again and again. The palate is sensational. The tannins are fine and supple, the acidity pitch-perfect, the balance absolutely exquisite. There is real mineralité to this Saint Estèphe, the finish exuding immense finesse and poise. What a marvellous Cos d’Estournel.
2010 Chateau Calon-Segur 95
The Calon-Segur has a very fragrant bouquet with perfumed raspberry coulis, fresh strawberry, limestone and a hint of dried rose petals – very feminine for Calon-Segur – certainly a Saint Estèphe with great breeding. The palate is medium-bodied with superb acidity right from the start. It is taut, tightly coiled, brilliantly focused and though it does possess the bravura of Cos d’Estournel’s its precision and linearity is enthralling. Again, there is that graphite note just coming through on the aftertaste. This is classic Saint Estephe and a testament to the late Mme Gasqueton. Tasted November 2012.
2010 Chateau Montrose 96+
The Chateau Montrose has a dense, broody bouquet with tarry black fruit, cedar and a touch of pencil shavings. It speaks of Saint Estèphe but with a Pauillac accent. The palate is medium-bodied with bold, firm, almost obdurate tannins. This is a very classic Montrose, strict and focused, broody with dry tannins and plenty of tertiary black fruit that linger long in the mouth.
2010 Chateau Capbern-Gasqueton 92
A blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot, the Capbern-Gasqueton has a highly perfumed bouquet with lifted raspberry, wild strawberry and cedar scents that are refined and elegant. It is joined by a hint of pencil shavings/antique bureau with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh, quite penetrating entry. It is underpinned by crisp acidity and robust tannins towards the finish that lend structure and backbone. Masculine, stately and long, this is a great Saint Estèphe.”